Sage Travelers
Sage Travelers
The Amazing Amazon
We're back from our month-long trip, and after sleeping on a ship for four weeks, it's good to be on terra firma once again. We sailed 1,000 miles down the Amazon River in Brazil to the industrial city of Manaus, where we turned around and traveled back toward the Atlantic. We stopped at several smaller cities and remote villages as we sailed to and from Manaus. Then we made our way through the Caribbean Sea toward Florida, stopping at Devil's Island, Tobago, St. Lucia, and St. Maarten. To say it was an amazing experience is an understatement.
We made new friends and met interesting people, both on the ship and in Brazil. Janie and Wally, Viva and Ralph, Mike and Sara... thanks for sharing your friendship and making the trip even more enjoyable. In Parintins we met Emerson, who makes a living as a tricycle taxi driver. He made an effort to show Alex all the birding hot spots and helped us see Parintins off the beaten path, through the eyes of a native. In Manaus, we met Philip, a taxi driver, who allowed us to design our own excursion and took us to see the opera house, the Indian museum, the fish market, the favelas, and several local parks and beaches.
A few highlights from the Amazon segment of our trip...
The Amazon rain forest canopy is dense and lush. This picture was taken from a trail in Boca da Valeria...
... where one might even encounter giant snakes, like this boa shedding its skin:
The rain forest is hot, humid and home to a great variety of creatures that roam freely, like this capuchin monkey:
These are giant victoria amazonica lilies growing in a tributary of the Amazon River... notice the caiman on one of the pods:
Inhabitants along the river use sloths, parrots, monkeys, and caimen for "photo ops." For a small tip, feel free to take a picture:
This one-room schoolhouse is in Boca da Valeria, a remote village with about 75 inhabitants. Students posed for us:
The water of the Amazon River is brown, like coffee with cream. The waters of some tannin-rich rivers that flow into the Amazon are black, like the Rio Negro or the Tapajoz. Here you can see the meeting of the waters of the Amazon and Tapajoz River in Santarem:
The Amazon River serves as the "highway" between villages and cities along the Amazon Basin. Instead of buses or taxes, boats of all sizes are used:
For trips that last 2-3 days, travelers hang their hammock on hooks attached to beams on the boat:
Floating gas stations on the river are frequently seen, like this one in Manaus :
The black birds in this photo are vultures... they stand by, ready to feast on fish entrails and trash:
The Amazon River is home to diverse species of fish, including catfish big enough to swallow a small child...
... as well as man-eating piranhas like this one which we caught with raw chicken as bait. By the way, piranha tastes like tilapia:
Homes along the water are built on stilts to accommodate the rising water during the wet season:
Some homes are built to float on the water:
Fruit like bananas, papaya, mango, and pineapple is cheap and plentiful. Here are pineapple vendors in Santarem:
Tricycle taxis in Parintins:
The beautiful Teatro Amazonas opera house in Manaus is worth a tour.... the frescoes on the ceiling are impressive:
The opulence of Teatro Amazonas is in sharp contrast to the shanty towns, known as favelas , which are being replaced with government housing:
I will long remember the glorious Amazon sunsets:
~ Lisa
We made new friends and met interesting people, both on the ship and in Brazil. Janie and Wally, Viva and Ralph, Mike and Sara... thanks for sharing your friendship and making the trip even more enjoyable. In Parintins we met Emerson, who makes a living as a tricycle taxi driver. He made an effort to show Alex all the birding hot spots and helped us see Parintins off the beaten path, through the eyes of a native. In Manaus, we met Philip, a taxi driver, who allowed us to design our own excursion and took us to see the opera house, the Indian museum, the fish market, the favelas, and several local parks and beaches.
A few highlights from the Amazon segment of our trip...
The Amazon rain forest canopy is dense and lush. This picture was taken from a trail in Boca da Valeria...
... where one might even encounter giant snakes, like this boa shedding its skin:
The rain forest is hot, humid and home to a great variety of creatures that roam freely, like this capuchin monkey:
These are giant victoria amazonica lilies growing in a tributary of the Amazon River... notice the caiman on one of the pods:
Inhabitants along the river use sloths, parrots, monkeys, and caimen for "photo ops." For a small tip, feel free to take a picture:
This one-room schoolhouse is in Boca da Valeria, a remote village with about 75 inhabitants. Students posed for us:
The water of the Amazon River is brown, like coffee with cream. The waters of some tannin-rich rivers that flow into the Amazon are black, like the Rio Negro or the Tapajoz. Here you can see the meeting of the waters of the Amazon and Tapajoz River in Santarem:
The Amazon River serves as the "highway" between villages and cities along the Amazon Basin. Instead of buses or taxes, boats of all sizes are used:
For trips that last 2-3 days, travelers hang their hammock on hooks attached to beams on the boat:
Floating gas stations on the river are frequently seen, like this one in Manaus :
The black birds in this photo are vultures... they stand by, ready to feast on fish entrails and trash:
The Amazon River is home to diverse species of fish, including catfish big enough to swallow a small child...
... as well as man-eating piranhas like this one which we caught with raw chicken as bait. By the way, piranha tastes like tilapia:
Homes along the water are built on stilts to accommodate the rising water during the wet season:
Some homes are built to float on the water:
Fruit like bananas, papaya, mango, and pineapple is cheap and plentiful. Here are pineapple vendors in Santarem:
Tricycle taxis in Parintins:
The beautiful Teatro Amazonas opera house in Manaus is worth a tour.... the frescoes on the ceiling are impressive:
The opulence of Teatro Amazonas is in sharp contrast to the shanty towns, known as favelas , which are being replaced with government housing:
I will long remember the glorious Amazon sunsets:
~ Lisa
Peru: People and Places
Our month-long trip to Peru in October fulfilled our dream of seeing Machu Picchu, a World Heritage site, and we were delighted to discover that Peru has much more to offer than "just" Machu Picchu.
We flew to Lima and spent a few days in Miraflores until it was time to join the Road Scholar group, our traveling companions for about two weeks. I was a bit apprehensive about a group tour because we are used to traveling independently. Our concerns were allayed as soon as we began to meet the members of our group, a delightful assortment of retired folks from all over the USA. We enjoyed the "group" experience so much that we plan to undertake another Road Scholar adventure, possibly to China and/or Africa in the next year or so.
So on to the highlights of Peru...
After the orientation in Lima, we flew to Chiclayo in northern Peru the following day. Our visit to the Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum was an amazing experience. Our group was warmly welcomed at a local school. We were entertained by the children who made me realize how fortunate school children in the US are, despite budget cuts and diminishing resources. Our public schools have so much to offer in comparison.
From Chiclayo, we traveled by bus to Trujillo. On the way, we stopped at the Sipan museum and archeological site. We had lunch of typical cuisine at a hacienda in Paijan where we saw a demonstration of beautiful Peruvian Paso horses with their flawless gait. The Trujillo leg included a visit to the temple of the Sun and the Moon and a tour of the huaca (temple) at Chan Chan, the largest pre-Columbian city in South America and another World Heritage site.
Then it was time to fly back to Lima for a tour of the Larco Museum , a definitely worthwhile stop with its many interesting exhibits, including one of erotic sculptures and ceramics from ancient Peruvian cultural groups. In preparation for Machu Picchu, we attended a lecture on pre-Columbian Inca culture given by a Peruvian archeologist.
Of course, the most anticipated segment was the visit to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu which was next. The group flew from Lima to Cusco, a beautiful city nestled in the Andes at about 11,000 feet. Fortunately, we stayed two nights in Yucay, in the Sacred Valley. The elevation was "only" 9,000 feet so that helped us acclimate to the higher Cusco elevation.
On the third day in the Sacred Valley, it was time to visit Machu Picchu. From Yucay we drove to Ollantaytambo to board the train to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu. At Aguas Calientes, we boarded a shuttle bus to the ruins. The road to the sanctuary is narrow with many serpentine switchbacks, and it is about a 45-minute drive.
Machu Picchu is one of those places that when you visit in person, you realize photos cannot adequately convey the beauty and splendor of this awe-inspiring sanctuary. It is simply worth while to see it for yourself. It was breathtaking... because of its altitude and majesty.
After our stay in Aguas Calientes, the group was off to Cusco where we spent about three days. We said good bye to the Road Scholars who left for Lima and we continued on to Lake Titcaca, the highest navigable alpine lake in the world at 12,500 feet above sea level. To get to our destination, we took the Andean Explorer train across the Peruvian altiplano to Puno, a large city on the lake. This journey took about 9 hours and provided incredible vistas of the high plains and mountains.
The side trip to Puno and Lake Titcaca was amazing. We took a boat to the floating reed islands of Uros (population 1,500) and then continued to Taquile Island. Alex was able to bird-watch to his heart's content and captured at least 100 species on camera during the entire trip. Watch for a future post on the birds of Peru.
After our adventure here, it was time to return to Lima for about four days. We spent our time taking in the sights, talking to the locals, sampling the delicious Peruvian cuisine, exploring the zoo, and just having fun. Alex spent one day birding at a marsh south of Lima, Pantanos de Villa. We left this beautiful country with thoughts of returning in the near future.
~ Lisa
Adventures in Utah
Mid-September took us to southern Utah, a geologically stunning corner of the state. Our home base for one week was Brian Head, a popular mountain resort town both in summer and winter. The elevation of Brian Head is 11,307 ft. but our lodge was at 10,280 ft. Nonetheless, it took us a day to acclimate to the high elevation and it was a good trial run for our October trip to Peru where we will be at elevations ranging from 8,500 to 12,500 ft.
Our first stop was Cedar Breaks National Monument , about a 10 minute drive from our lodge. This is a beautiful park with many trails that are popular with hikers and cyclists.
Striking hoodoos are abundant in the southern Utah landscape.
Another day took us to Zion National Park where there are abundant hiking trails such as the River Walk. Visitors must park outside the park and take a shuttle into the park. Shuttles run ever 6-8 minutes.
Hanging gardens add to the beauty of this hike.
Beautiful but extremely poisonous datura flourishes along the trail.
The view from the Weeping Wall hiking trail at Zion.
Some interesting hoodoos at Zion.
A view from the visitor's center at Zion.
This is Nagunt Mesa at Kolob Canyons which are part of Zion National Park.
A view from the rim of Bryce Canyon , where visitors can easily drive into the park, completely uncrowded this time of year.
One of the amazing vistas at Bryce Canyon.
Another spectacular view from the rim of Bryce Canyon.
~ Lisa
Our first stop was Cedar Breaks National Monument , about a 10 minute drive from our lodge. This is a beautiful park with many trails that are popular with hikers and cyclists.
Striking hoodoos are abundant in the southern Utah landscape.
Another day took us to Zion National Park where there are abundant hiking trails such as the River Walk. Visitors must park outside the park and take a shuttle into the park. Shuttles run ever 6-8 minutes.
Hanging gardens add to the beauty of this hike.
Beautiful but extremely poisonous datura flourishes along the trail.
The view from the Weeping Wall hiking trail at Zion.
Some interesting hoodoos at Zion.
A view from the visitor's center at Zion.
This is Nagunt Mesa at Kolob Canyons which are part of Zion National Park.
A view from the rim of Bryce Canyon , where visitors can easily drive into the park, completely uncrowded this time of year.
One of the amazing vistas at Bryce Canyon.
Another spectacular view from the rim of Bryce Canyon.
~ Lisa
Birds of Hawaii
The Hawaiian Islands offer abundant opportunities for bird-watching, and Alexander was able to "shoot" some beautiful specimens during our recent trip. These were spotted on the islands of Maui, Hawaii (Big Island), Kauai, and Oahu. The description appears above each photo:
Black-Crowned Night Heron:
Wandering Tattler:
House Finch:
The Hawaii state bird is the Nene, or Hawaiian Goose:
Hawaiian Duck:
Hawaiian Coot:
Common Waxwing:
Common Myna:
Zebra Dove:
Spotted Dove:
White Rock Dove:
Yellow-Fronted Canary:
Red Whiskered Bulbul:
Red Vented Bulbul:
Nutmeg Mannikin:
Red Crested Cardinal:
Northern Cardinal:
Java Sparrow:
House Sparrow:
Hawaiian House Sparrow:
Japanese White Eye:
Cattle Egret:
Common Moorhen:
Ruddy Turnstone:
Hawaiian Stilt:
And last but not least, Red Junglefowl:
~ Lisa
Black-Crowned Night Heron:
Wandering Tattler:
House Finch:
The Hawaii state bird is the Nene, or Hawaiian Goose:
Hawaiian Duck:
Hawaiian Coot:
Common Waxwing:
Common Myna:
Zebra Dove:
Spotted Dove:
White Rock Dove:
Yellow-Fronted Canary:
Red Whiskered Bulbul:
Red Vented Bulbul:
Nutmeg Mannikin:
Red Crested Cardinal:
Northern Cardinal:
Java Sparrow:
House Sparrow:
Hawaiian House Sparrow:
Japanese White Eye:
Cattle Egret:
Common Moorhen:
Ruddy Turnstone:
Hawaiian Stilt:
And last but not least, Red Junglefowl:
~ Lisa
Mahalo and Aloha
Two weeks in Hawaii is simply not long enough to see all our 50th state has to offer, but we gave it a whirl. In June and July, Alexander and I, along with my sister and brother-in-law, made it to Maui, Hawaii (aka: Big Island), Kauai, and Oahu.
The first week was spent aboard the Pride of America, enabling us to tour Maui, Hawaii, and Kauai. The second week was spent in a timeshare-exchange condo on Waikiki Beach. The near-perfect weather enhanced our experience but the pictures do not do justice to the beauty of Hawaii. Here are some of my favorites... with captions above each picture.
The breathtaking view from the Mt. Haleakala, Maui, visitors center (elevation 9,740 ft.):
The amazing Banyan tree in downtown Lahaina, Maui:
The Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens , Hilo, are exquisite...
...and provide a tropical tapestry of colors and textures that delight the senses:
These gekos are well-camouflaged in this lush rainforest:
The botanical specimens are diverse and well-labeled:
This "white bat plant" reminds me of an alien:
Plan at least two hours at the gardens that are located on Onomea Bay:
Next day... a visit to Umauma Falls...
... and in the afternoon, a visit Akaka Falls State Park:
An orchid farm on the Big Island:
At our last port of call, in Kauai, we rented a car and made it to the Fern Grotto. It was disappointing that visitors are no longer allowed into the grotto, but it is still a serene and popular setting for weddings:
Having the car gave us lots of flexibility. We even made it to Walmart where they have the best prices for souvenirs, coffee, and macadamia nuts.
From our stateroom we had an excellent view of the Naapali coastline as our ship sailed away from Kauai enroute to Oahu:
Although I'd previously been to Maui and Kauai, I was not expecting to like Oahu as much as I did. We will definitely go back and spend more time in this lovely city.
Wailkiki Beach is delightful... by day...
... and at sunset:
I loved our sunset walks, watching locals and tourists alike frolicking in the sea:
Fourth of July on Waikiki provided a spectacular free show:
For our week in Oahu, we got a great deal through Hotwire for a comfortable rental car. We had the luxury of planning our days according to our whims and our condo, located about two blocks from Waikiki Beach provided free parking. We sure packed a lot into our week on Oahu!
Pearl Harbor:
The USS Arizona Memorial:
Polynesian Cultural Center:
The view from the top of Diamond Head was superb...
...so the rather strenuous climb was worth it:
Our friend Richard insisted we try malasadas from Leonard's Bakery and they are incredibly delicious!
There was so much more... our evening coffee at the Halekulani Hotel , the Dole Plantation, the Honolulu Zoo, and the Hanauma Bay Marine Preserve to name a few. I can't wait to go back!
Aloha!
~ Lisa
The first week was spent aboard the Pride of America, enabling us to tour Maui, Hawaii, and Kauai. The second week was spent in a timeshare-exchange condo on Waikiki Beach. The near-perfect weather enhanced our experience but the pictures do not do justice to the beauty of Hawaii. Here are some of my favorites... with captions above each picture.
The breathtaking view from the Mt. Haleakala, Maui, visitors center (elevation 9,740 ft.):
The amazing Banyan tree in downtown Lahaina, Maui:
The Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens , Hilo, are exquisite...
...and provide a tropical tapestry of colors and textures that delight the senses:
These gekos are well-camouflaged in this lush rainforest:
The botanical specimens are diverse and well-labeled:
This "white bat plant" reminds me of an alien:
Plan at least two hours at the gardens that are located on Onomea Bay:
Next day... a visit to Umauma Falls...
... and in the afternoon, a visit Akaka Falls State Park:
An orchid farm on the Big Island:
At our last port of call, in Kauai, we rented a car and made it to the Fern Grotto. It was disappointing that visitors are no longer allowed into the grotto, but it is still a serene and popular setting for weddings:
Having the car gave us lots of flexibility. We even made it to Walmart where they have the best prices for souvenirs, coffee, and macadamia nuts.
From our stateroom we had an excellent view of the Naapali coastline as our ship sailed away from Kauai enroute to Oahu:
Although I'd previously been to Maui and Kauai, I was not expecting to like Oahu as much as I did. We will definitely go back and spend more time in this lovely city.
Wailkiki Beach is delightful... by day...
... and at sunset:
I loved our sunset walks, watching locals and tourists alike frolicking in the sea:
Fourth of July on Waikiki provided a spectacular free show:
For our week in Oahu, we got a great deal through Hotwire for a comfortable rental car. We had the luxury of planning our days according to our whims and our condo, located about two blocks from Waikiki Beach provided free parking. We sure packed a lot into our week on Oahu!
Pearl Harbor:
The USS Arizona Memorial:
Polynesian Cultural Center:
The view from the top of Diamond Head was superb...
...so the rather strenuous climb was worth it:
Our friend Richard insisted we try malasadas from Leonard's Bakery and they are incredibly delicious!
There was so much more... our evening coffee at the Halekulani Hotel , the Dole Plantation, the Honolulu Zoo, and the Hanauma Bay Marine Preserve to name a few. I can't wait to go back!
~ Lisa
Birds of Mexico: Tabasco
Our trip to Mexico provided abundant opportunities for bird-watching. In the state of Tabasco, in and around Villahermosa, Alex was able to photograph hundreds of birds. Following are some of my favorites... the description is above each picture:
Yellow-headed Parrot:
Wood Storks:
Vermillion Flycatcher:
White Ibis:
White-collared Seedeater:
Tiger Egret:
Summer Tanager:
Social Flycatcher:
Snowy Egret:
Roseate Spoonbill:
Plain Chachalaca:
Least Tern:
Green Heron:
Green Parrot:
Little Blue Heron:
Great Egret:
Pale-vented Dove:
Great Kiskadee:
Great Blue Heron:
Double-crested Cormorant:
Black-capped Night Heron:
Black-bellied Whistling Ducks:
Belted Kingfisher:
Bat Falcon:
~ Lisa (Photos by Alexander)
Upcoming posts: Adventures in the Yucatan
Yellow-headed Parrot:
Wood Storks:
Vermillion Flycatcher:
White Ibis:
White-collared Seedeater:
Tiger Egret:
Summer Tanager:
Social Flycatcher:
Snowy Egret:
Roseate Spoonbill:
Plain Chachalaca:
Least Tern:
Green Heron:
Green Parrot:
Little Blue Heron:
Great Egret:
Pale-vented Dove:
Great Kiskadee:
Great Blue Heron:
Double-crested Cormorant:
Black-capped Night Heron:
Black-bellied Whistling Ducks:
Belted Kingfisher:
Bat Falcon:
~ Lisa (Photos by Alexander)
Upcoming posts: Adventures in the Yucatan
Yumká and La Venta
For a very reasonable fee of $72, Alex and I had a car and driver for the entire day. The car was a brand-new Toyota, driven by Carlos, a friendly young man who worked for the tour company. The tour included the entrance fees to both Yumká and La Venta Park.
Yumká is a wildlife park in the Mexican state of Tabasco, about a 30-minute drive from the city of Villhermosa. The 250 acre park is well-maintained and home to a large collection of exotic animals and a sanctuary for birds that roam freely. Visitors climb aboard a large, open truck that seats about 30 passengers and then you are taken on a "safari."
The exotic animals such as these zebras appeared content and well-nourished...
... and many like this giraffe roam free but keep their distance from the safari-mobile.
Some of the more dangerous animals are kept back by a barely visible hot-wire.
After the "safari" you are taken to the Visitors' Center that has many interesting displays, including several aviaries and many birds that roam the grounds freely.
Here is a termite nest that provides a constant supply of food for some birds.
The parrots at the Visitors Center were entertaining... they talked and did pirouettes for the visitors, but their wings are clipped.
After a great morning at Yumká we stopped for lunch at La Lupita, a popular sea food restaurant where I had an very good crab cocktail and Alex had freshly-caught grilled fish. Then we were off to La Venta Park which was within walking distance of our hotel. Carlos took us to the gates where we met our guide, Raul.
La Venta Park is not to be confused with La Venta archeological site which is located several hours from the city of Villahermosa, the capitol of Tabasco. We visited only La Venta Park which includes an outdoor museum and a zoo. The most important Olmec artifacts were moved years ago from the archeological site to the park to safeguard them from vandals. La Venta Park is dedicated to highlighting and preserving the Olmec "mother culture" of Mexico. There is much to see at La Venta, but here are just some of the highlights.
This colossal head, unlike the others found at La Venta, does not represent half-open lips, but portrays a harsh gesture and wears a helmet decorated with three petals (c. 700-400 B.C.).
This is the "Triumphal Altar," one of the best-preserved altars and of great iconographic meaning. A human face and jaguar jaws with a symbol of crossed bands which represent the spots of this feline, associated with power, can be made out in the central part of the cornice of this monument.
This colossal head is known as the "Young Warrior" (c. 700-600 B.C.) and was found lined up in northernmost La Venta. A familiar feature is the teeth-revealing open mouth. The basalt used for this head confirms the existence of many deposits exploited by the Olmecs in the Tuxtlas region of Veracruz.
This colossal head is known as "The Old Warrior" and is similar to other heads by its features. However, this governor-warrior represents different iconographic elements such as the helmet which is decorated with a claw, possibly of the harpy eagle.
This sculpture is known as the "Governor," a crossed-legged seated character who must have been a high-ranking dignitary based on the garments he is wearing, pectoral on his chest, divided headdress and decorations over his ears.
A large group of coatimundis live in the park, foraging freely... they are also adept at begging from visitors. They are known as "tejones" and will appear from nowhere to get a treat of dried bread.
~ Lisa
Yumká is a wildlife park in the Mexican state of Tabasco, about a 30-minute drive from the city of Villhermosa. The 250 acre park is well-maintained and home to a large collection of exotic animals and a sanctuary for birds that roam freely. Visitors climb aboard a large, open truck that seats about 30 passengers and then you are taken on a "safari."
The exotic animals such as these zebras appeared content and well-nourished...
... and many like this giraffe roam free but keep their distance from the safari-mobile.
Some of the more dangerous animals are kept back by a barely visible hot-wire.
After the "safari" you are taken to the Visitors' Center that has many interesting displays, including several aviaries and many birds that roam the grounds freely.
Here is a termite nest that provides a constant supply of food for some birds.
The parrots at the Visitors Center were entertaining... they talked and did pirouettes for the visitors, but their wings are clipped.
After a great morning at Yumká we stopped for lunch at La Lupita, a popular sea food restaurant where I had an very good crab cocktail and Alex had freshly-caught grilled fish. Then we were off to La Venta Park which was within walking distance of our hotel. Carlos took us to the gates where we met our guide, Raul.
La Venta Park is not to be confused with La Venta archeological site which is located several hours from the city of Villahermosa, the capitol of Tabasco. We visited only La Venta Park which includes an outdoor museum and a zoo. The most important Olmec artifacts were moved years ago from the archeological site to the park to safeguard them from vandals. La Venta Park is dedicated to highlighting and preserving the Olmec "mother culture" of Mexico. There is much to see at La Venta, but here are just some of the highlights.
This colossal head, unlike the others found at La Venta, does not represent half-open lips, but portrays a harsh gesture and wears a helmet decorated with three petals (c. 700-400 B.C.).
This is the "Triumphal Altar," one of the best-preserved altars and of great iconographic meaning. A human face and jaguar jaws with a symbol of crossed bands which represent the spots of this feline, associated with power, can be made out in the central part of the cornice of this monument.
This colossal head is known as the "Young Warrior" (c. 700-600 B.C.) and was found lined up in northernmost La Venta. A familiar feature is the teeth-revealing open mouth. The basalt used for this head confirms the existence of many deposits exploited by the Olmecs in the Tuxtlas region of Veracruz.
This colossal head is known as "The Old Warrior" and is similar to other heads by its features. However, this governor-warrior represents different iconographic elements such as the helmet which is decorated with a claw, possibly of the harpy eagle.
This sculpture is known as the "Governor," a crossed-legged seated character who must have been a high-ranking dignitary based on the garments he is wearing, pectoral on his chest, divided headdress and decorations over his ears.
A large group of coatimundis live in the park, foraging freely... they are also adept at begging from visitors. They are known as "tejones" and will appear from nowhere to get a treat of dried bread.
~ Lisa
Pre-Hispanic City of Palenque
Our recent trip to Mexico took us to the Pre-Hispanic City and National Park of Palenque in the state of Chiapas, about a two-hour drive from Villahermosa. The history of Palenque is fascinating and it's easy to understand why it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987. Palenque is an example of a Mayan sanctuary from the classical period. This city was at its height between 500 and 700 AD. It had been abandoned centuries before the arrival of Spanish priest, Pedro Lorenzo de Nada in 1567, who first wrote about it. In the 20th century, excavations at Palenque have shed light on the structure of the Mayan dynasties. In the centuries after it was abandoned, Palenque was swallowed by the jungle and only about 5% of the structures have been excavated and are able to be viewed by the public.
We booked a group tour from our hotel in Villahermosa at a cost of about $135 USD for the two of us, including the guide at Palenque but not tips or lunch. We ended up being the only two on the tour so we were assigned a small but new private car and a friendly driver. After the archeological site, our last stop was the Site Museum (Museo del Sitio) which was deliciously air conditioned, and then lunch at a recommended open-air restaurant called Los Liones. Alex, Carlos our driver, and I were the only guests... the food was decent but the best was yet to come. The excursion to Palenque took about 8 hours.
This photo taken from the Temple of the Foliated Cross shows the Temple of the Sun at left, the Palace in the center, and the Temple of the Cross, at right:
A closer view of the Palace as it looks today:
A replica of the Palace at the Site Museum shows what it looked like in it heyday:
The Temple of the Sun:
Looking up at the Temple of the Inscriptions, the burial place of Pacal, a Mayan king:
Alexander climbed to the top of the Temple of the Cross (he's on the left)... I watched from the shade of a big tree because it was over 100 degrees:
The Temple of the Foliated Cross is an easy climb:
Temple of the Foliated Cross is at right:
From a distance you can see the dense, lush jungle that envelopes Palenque:
Did I mention that 95% of Palenque has NOT been excavated? Visitors just have access to a mere 5% of the site. Here, barely visible beneath the overgrowth, is a structure yet to be excavated:
A structure under excavation, a process that takes years:
The Maya were an advanced society. To this day, the exact cause of their disappearance remains a mystery. Here you can see the aqueduct that was used to bring water to the city:
This is the impressive temple group near the entrance. The craft vendors are kept out of the park and visitors are free to enjoy this amazing place without being distracted:
The rain forest of Palenque contains diverse flora and fauna, a bird-lover's paradise. It looks cool and green, but cool it is not. The 100 degree heat was suffocating when combined with the humidity:
~ Lisa
We booked a group tour from our hotel in Villahermosa at a cost of about $135 USD for the two of us, including the guide at Palenque but not tips or lunch. We ended up being the only two on the tour so we were assigned a small but new private car and a friendly driver. After the archeological site, our last stop was the Site Museum (Museo del Sitio) which was deliciously air conditioned, and then lunch at a recommended open-air restaurant called Los Liones. Alex, Carlos our driver, and I were the only guests... the food was decent but the best was yet to come. The excursion to Palenque took about 8 hours.
This photo taken from the Temple of the Foliated Cross shows the Temple of the Sun at left, the Palace in the center, and the Temple of the Cross, at right:
A closer view of the Palace as it looks today:
A replica of the Palace at the Site Museum shows what it looked like in it heyday:
The Temple of the Sun:
Looking up at the Temple of the Inscriptions, the burial place of Pacal, a Mayan king:
Alexander climbed to the top of the Temple of the Cross (he's on the left)... I watched from the shade of a big tree because it was over 100 degrees:
The Temple of the Foliated Cross is an easy climb:
Temple of the Foliated Cross is at right:
From a distance you can see the dense, lush jungle that envelopes Palenque:
Did I mention that 95% of Palenque has NOT been excavated? Visitors just have access to a mere 5% of the site. Here, barely visible beneath the overgrowth, is a structure yet to be excavated:
A structure under excavation, a process that takes years:
The Maya were an advanced society. To this day, the exact cause of their disappearance remains a mystery. Here you can see the aqueduct that was used to bring water to the city:
This is the impressive temple group near the entrance. The craft vendors are kept out of the park and visitors are free to enjoy this amazing place without being distracted:
The rain forest of Palenque contains diverse flora and fauna, a bird-lover's paradise. It looks cool and green, but cool it is not. The 100 degree heat was suffocating when combined with the humidity:
~ Lisa
Trek to the Sunshine State: Magic Kingdom and More
They say you're never too old to play like a kid, or maybe it's that we're in our second childhood, but play we did. A good part of our trip to Florida involved just having fun at the many attractions. After two weeks, it was time to go home and we still hadn't accomplished all there is to see and do. But, hey, this is a good excuse to go back! It helped that I researched the best days to go to the various attractions, so we never had to wait in line more than 5 minutes, so it really paid off.
Here are some of my favorite places...
EPCOT is an acronym for Experimental Prototype Community of Tomorrow. The International exhibits open at 11:00, but there is plenty to see before then.
The topiaries are delightful!
The rain and cold didn't dampen our spirits at Hollywood Studios!
The Silverbacks entertained us at Animal Kingdom...
...as did these frolicking flamingos.
My favorite place at Disney World... the Magic Kingdom! My favorite ride: Space Mountain!
Yes, without a doubt, the Magic Kingdom was my favorite. What an amazing place! Have you heard the rumor about the underground city at Magic Kingdom? Guess what, it's true. Check it out!
Everyone loves a parade... especially the children. The look on their faces is priceless!
Downtown Disney has free parking, lots of shops, restaurants, and some interesting displays, like this sea monster made of Leggos.
Another day it was off to Gatorland where you can see some extremely big alligators and more. Gator wresting is pretty easy...
Anyone can do it!
What can I say about St. Augustine? It's a beautiful place and the oldest city in North America. We will stay longer next time. Here is the harbor... you can see the light house in the distance.
Yours truly at the St. Augustine city gates.
Yes, we'll be back!
~ Lisa
Here are some of my favorite places...
EPCOT is an acronym for Experimental Prototype Community of Tomorrow. The International exhibits open at 11:00, but there is plenty to see before then.
The topiaries are delightful!
The rain and cold didn't dampen our spirits at Hollywood Studios!
The Silverbacks entertained us at Animal Kingdom...
...as did these frolicking flamingos.
My favorite place at Disney World... the Magic Kingdom! My favorite ride: Space Mountain!
Yes, without a doubt, the Magic Kingdom was my favorite. What an amazing place! Have you heard the rumor about the underground city at Magic Kingdom? Guess what, it's true. Check it out!
Everyone loves a parade... especially the children. The look on their faces is priceless!
Downtown Disney has free parking, lots of shops, restaurants, and some interesting displays, like this sea monster made of Leggos.
Another day it was off to Gatorland where you can see some extremely big alligators and more. Gator wresting is pretty easy...
Anyone can do it!
What can I say about St. Augustine? It's a beautiful place and the oldest city in North America. We will stay longer next time. Here is the harbor... you can see the light house in the distance.
Yours truly at the St. Augustine city gates.
Yes, we'll be back!
~ Lisa
Trek to the Sunshine State: Everglades
When our trip to Machu Picchu was canceled due to the torrential rains and the ensuing destruction of the railroad to Aguas Calientes, Alexander and I were left itching to go somewhere WARM.
Ever the history buff, Alexander wanted to see St. Augustine, the oldest continuously occupied city in the US, established in 1565. I was leaning more toward something like Disney World, so Orlando, Florida fit the bill perfectly. This is a good time for travel bargains. Traveling in the off-peak season is a benefit of being retired and we packed a lot into two weeks. Ironically, we did not encounter the warm weather we craved, but we did have fun. It was a great impromptu trip.
Our first weekend took us to the Everglades. An air boat ride provided excellent viewing, especially birds and alligators. The swampy Everglades are loaded with interesting flora and fauna, and happily, the cold weather meant NO MOSQUITOES.
Trees in the Everglades are abundantly draped with Spanish moss, an air plant (epiphyte), which means it does not use its host plant for food. It has no roots but attaches to the host using stems. The stems hang down from the host tree branches and collect moisture and nutrients from the air.
Lush Spanish moss was used to stuff pillows and mattresses in the "olden days." It has a soft, spongy texture.
Beware of lurking alligators, not always easy to spot in the murky waters...
Bird-watching was greatly entertaining! Here is a Purple Gallinule (aka swamp chicken)...
... and a Great Egret on her nest. These egrets nest above alligator sanctuaries (aka gator holes) to keep predators from reaching their nests.
Any babies that fall out of the nest become alligator food, but the adults were often seen cautiously venturing close to the 'gators.
Whee.... "Look, ma, I can surf!"
An alert Great Blue Heron...
... beautiful!
Here a sweet-faced female Boat-tailed Grackle checks us out. The males are black.
A Black-crowned Night Heron...
...and a Snowy Egret getting feisty with another egret...
These homely Black Vultures have an important role in the ecosystem.
They are the "clean-up crew" just waiting for the next opportunity.
These turtles basking in the sun where as still as statues.
Our air boat was similar to this one, seen moving away from the dock. The noise made ear plugs necessary, but our guide stopped frequently for better viewing and much-appreciated quiet.
More on Florida to follow... see upcoming post.
~ Lisa
Ever the history buff, Alexander wanted to see St. Augustine, the oldest continuously occupied city in the US, established in 1565. I was leaning more toward something like Disney World, so Orlando, Florida fit the bill perfectly. This is a good time for travel bargains. Traveling in the off-peak season is a benefit of being retired and we packed a lot into two weeks. Ironically, we did not encounter the warm weather we craved, but we did have fun. It was a great impromptu trip.
Our first weekend took us to the Everglades. An air boat ride provided excellent viewing, especially birds and alligators. The swampy Everglades are loaded with interesting flora and fauna, and happily, the cold weather meant NO MOSQUITOES.
Trees in the Everglades are abundantly draped with Spanish moss, an air plant (epiphyte), which means it does not use its host plant for food. It has no roots but attaches to the host using stems. The stems hang down from the host tree branches and collect moisture and nutrients from the air.
Beware of lurking alligators, not always easy to spot in the murky waters...
Bird-watching was greatly entertaining! Here is a Purple Gallinule (aka swamp chicken)...
... and a Great Egret on her nest. These egrets nest above alligator sanctuaries (aka gator holes) to keep predators from reaching their nests.
Any babies that fall out of the nest become alligator food, but the adults were often seen cautiously venturing close to the 'gators.
An alert Great Blue Heron...
... beautiful!
A Black-crowned Night Heron...
...and a Snowy Egret getting feisty with another egret...
These homely Black Vultures have an important role in the ecosystem.
They are the "clean-up crew" just waiting for the next opportunity.
These turtles basking in the sun where as still as statues.
~ Lisa
