Sage Travelers

The Amazing Amazon

2011-01-26T15:57:00Z

We're back from our month-long trip, and after sleeping on a ship for four weeks, it's good to be on terra firma once again. We sailed 1,000 miles down the Amazon River in Brazil to the industrial city of Manaus, where we turned around and traveled back toward the Atlantic. We stopped at several smaller cities and remote villages as we sailed to and from Manaus. Then we made our way through the Caribbean Sea toward Florida, stopping at Devil's Island, Tobago, St. Lucia, and St. Maarten. To say it was an amazing experience is an understatement.

We made new friends and met interesting people, both on the ship and in Brazil. Janie and Wally, Viva and Ralph, Mike and Sara... thanks for sharing your friendship and making the trip even more enjoyable. In Parintins we met Emerson, who makes a living as a tricycle taxi driver. He made an effort to show Alex all the birding hot spots and helped us see Parintins off the beaten path, through the eyes of a native. In Manaus, we met Philip, a taxi driver, who allowed us to design our own excursion and took us to see the opera house, the Indian museum, the fish market, the favelas, and several local parks and beaches.

A few highlights from the Amazon segment of our trip...

The Amazon rain forest canopy is dense and lush. This picture was taken from a trail in Boca da Valeria...

... where one might even encounter giant snakes, like this boa shedding its skin:

The rain forest is hot, humid and home to a great variety of creatures that roam freely, like this capuchin monkey:

These are giant victoria amazonica lilies growing in a tributary of the Amazon River... notice the caiman on one of the pods:

Inhabitants along the river use sloths, parrots, monkeys, and caimen for "photo ops." For a small tip, feel free to take a picture:

This one-room schoolhouse is in Boca da Valeria, a remote village with about 75 inhabitants. Students posed for us:

The water of the Amazon River is brown, like coffee with cream. The waters of some tannin-rich rivers that flow into the Amazon are black, like the Rio Negro or the Tapajoz. Here you can see the meeting of the waters of the Amazon and Tapajoz River in Santarem:

The Amazon River serves as the "highway" between villages and cities along the Amazon Basin. Instead of buses or taxes, boats of all sizes are used:

For trips that last 2-3 days, travelers hang their hammock on hooks attached to beams on the boat:

Floating gas stations on the river are frequently seen, like this one in Manaus :

The black birds in this photo are vultures... they stand by, ready to feast on fish entrails and trash:

The Amazon River is home to diverse species of fish, including catfish big enough to swallow a small child...

... as well as man-eating piranhas like this one which we caught with raw chicken as bait. By the way, piranha tastes like tilapia:

Homes along the water are built on stilts to accommodate the rising water during the wet season:

Some homes are built to float on the water:

Fruit like bananas, papaya, mango, and pineapple is cheap and plentiful. Here are pineapple vendors in Santarem:

Tricycle taxis in Parintins:

The beautiful Teatro Amazonas opera house in Manaus is worth a tour.... the frescoes on the ceiling are impressive:

The opulence of Teatro Amazonas is in sharp contrast to the shanty towns, known as favelas , which are being replaced with government housing:

I will long remember the glorious Amazon sunsets:

~ Lisa

Peru: People and Places

2010-11-23T00:33:00Z

Our month-long trip to Peru in October fulfilled our dream of seeing Machu Picchu, a World Heritage site, and we were delighted to discover that Peru has much more to offer than "just" Machu Picchu.

We flew to Lima and spent a few days in Miraflores until it was time to join the Road Scholar group, our traveling companions for about two weeks. I was a bit apprehensive about a group tour because we are used to traveling independently. Our concerns were allayed as soon as we began to meet the members of our group, a delightful assortment of retired folks from all over the USA. We enjoyed the "group" experience so much that we plan to undertake another Road Scholar adventure, possibly to China and/or Africa in the next year or so.

So on to the highlights of Peru...

After the orientation in Lima, we flew to Chiclayo in northern Peru the following day. Our visit to the Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum was an amazing experience. Our group was warmly welcomed at a local school. We were entertained by the children who made me realize how fortunate school children in the US are, despite budget cuts and diminishing resources. Our public schools have so much to offer in comparison.

From Chiclayo, we traveled by bus to Trujillo. On the way, we stopped at the Sipan museum and archeological site. We had lunch of typical cuisine at a hacienda in Paijan where we saw a demonstration of beautiful Peruvian Paso horses with their flawless gait. The Trujillo leg included a visit to the temple of the Sun and the Moon and a tour of the huaca (temple) at Chan Chan, the largest pre-Columbian city in South America and another World Heritage site.

Then it was time to fly back to Lima for a tour of the Larco Museum , a definitely worthwhile stop with its many interesting exhibits, including one of erotic sculptures and ceramics from ancient Peruvian cultural groups. In preparation for Machu Picchu, we attended a lecture on pre-Columbian Inca culture given by a Peruvian archeologist.

Of course, the most anticipated segment was the visit to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu which was next. The group flew from Lima to Cusco, a beautiful city nestled in the Andes at about 11,000 feet. Fortunately, we stayed two nights in Yucay, in the Sacred Valley. The elevation was "only" 9,000 feet so that helped us acclimate to the higher Cusco elevation.

On the third day in the Sacred Valley, it was time to visit Machu Picchu. From Yucay we drove to Ollantaytambo to board the train to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu. At Aguas Calientes, we boarded a shuttle bus to the ruins. The road to the sanctuary is narrow with many serpentine switchbacks, and it is about a 45-minute drive.

Machu Picchu is one of those places that when you visit in person, you realize photos cannot adequately convey the beauty and splendor of this awe-inspiring sanctuary. It is simply worth while to see it for yourself. It was breathtaking... because of its altitude and majesty.

After our stay in Aguas Calientes, the group was off to Cusco where we spent about three days. We said good bye to the Road Scholars who left for Lima and we continued on to Lake Titcaca, the highest navigable alpine lake in the world at 12,500 feet above sea level. To get to our destination, we took the Andean Explorer train across the Peruvian altiplano to Puno, a large city on the lake. This journey took about 9 hours and provided incredible vistas of the high plains and mountains.

The side trip to Puno and Lake Titcaca was amazing. We took a boat to the floating reed islands of Uros (population 1,500) and then continued to Taquile Island. Alex was able to bird-watch to his heart's content and captured at least 100 species on camera during the entire trip. Watch for a future post on the birds of Peru.

After our adventure here, it was time to return to Lima for about four days. We spent our time taking in the sights, talking to the locals, sampling the delicious Peruvian cuisine, exploring the zoo, and just having fun. Alex spent one day birding at a marsh south of Lima, Pantanos de Villa. We left this beautiful country with thoughts of returning in the near future.

~ Lisa

Adventures in Utah

2010-09-29T18:35:00Z

Mid-September took us to southern Utah, a geologically stunning corner of the state. Our home base for one week was Brian Head, a popular mountain resort town both in summer and winter. The elevation of Brian Head is 11,307 ft. but our lodge was at 10,280 ft. Nonetheless, it took us a day to acclimate to the high elevation and it was a good trial run for our October trip to Peru where we will be at elevations ranging from 8,500 to 12,500 ft.

Our first stop was Cedar Breaks National Monument , about a 10 minute drive from our lodge. This is a beautiful park with many trails that are popular with hikers and cyclists.

Striking hoodoos are abundant in the southern Utah landscape.

Another day took us to Zion National Park where there are abundant hiking trails such as the River Walk. Visitors must park outside the park and take a shuttle into the park. Shuttles run ever 6-8 minutes.

Hanging gardens add to the beauty of this hike.

Beautiful but extremely poisonous datura flourishes along the trail.

The view from the Weeping Wall hiking trail at Zion.

Some interesting hoodoos at Zion.

A view from the visitor's center at Zion.

This is Nagunt Mesa at Kolob Canyons which are part of Zion National Park.

A view from the rim of Bryce Canyon , where visitors can easily drive into the park, completely uncrowded this time of year.

One of the amazing vistas at Bryce Canyon.

Another spectacular view from the rim of Bryce Canyon.

~ Lisa

Birds of Hawaii

2010-08-14T05:49:00Z

The Hawaiian Islands offer abundant opportunities for bird-watching, and Alexander was able to "shoot" some beautiful specimens during our recent trip. These were spotted on the islands of Maui, Hawaii (Big Island), Kauai, and Oahu. The description appears above each photo:

Black-Crowned Night Heron:

Wandering Tattler:

House Finch:

The Hawaii state bird is the Nene, or Hawaiian Goose:

Hawaiian Duck:

Hawaiian Coot:

Common Waxwing:

Common Myna:

Zebra Dove:

Spotted Dove:

White Rock Dove:

Yellow-Fronted Canary:

Red Whiskered Bulbul:

Red Vented Bulbul:

Nutmeg Mannikin:

Red Crested Cardinal:

Northern Cardinal:

Java Sparrow:

House Sparrow:

Hawaiian House Sparrow:

Japanese White Eye:

Cattle Egret:

Common Moorhen:

Ruddy Turnstone:

Hawaiian Stilt:

And last but not least, Red Junglefowl:

~ Lisa

Mahalo and Aloha

2010-08-04T04:52:00Z

Two weeks in Hawaii is simply not long enough to see all our 50th state has to offer, but we gave it a whirl. In June and July, Alexander and I, along with my sister and brother-in-law, made it to Maui, Hawaii (aka: Big Island), Kauai, and Oahu.

The first week was spent aboard the Pride of America, enabling us to tour Maui, Hawaii, and Kauai. The second week was spent in a timeshare-exchange condo on Waikiki Beach. The near-perfect weather enhanced our experience but the pictures do not do justice to the beauty of Hawaii. Here are some of my favorites... with captions above each picture.

The breathtaking view from the Mt. Haleakala, Maui, visitors center (elevation 9,740 ft.):

The amazing Banyan tree in downtown Lahaina, Maui:

The Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens , Hilo, are exquisite...

...and provide a tropical tapestry of colors and textures that delight the senses:

These gekos are well-camouflaged in this lush rainforest:

The botanical specimens are diverse and well-labeled:

This "white bat plant" reminds me of an alien:

Plan at least two hours at the gardens that are located on Onomea Bay:

Next day... a visit to Umauma Falls...

... and in the afternoon, a visit Akaka Falls State Park:

An orchid farm on the Big Island:

At our last port of call, in Kauai, we rented a car and made it to the Fern Grotto. It was disappointing that visitors are no longer allowed into the grotto, but it is still a serene and popular setting for weddings:

Having the car gave us lots of flexibility. We even made it to Walmart where they have the best prices for souvenirs, coffee, and macadamia nuts.

From our stateroom we had an excellent view of the Naapali coastline as our ship sailed away from Kauai enroute to Oahu:

Although I'd previously been to Maui and Kauai, I was not expecting to like Oahu as much as I did. We will definitely go back and spend more time in this lovely city.

Wailkiki Beach is delightful... by day...

... and at sunset:

I loved our sunset walks, watching locals and tourists alike frolicking in the sea:

Fourth of July on Waikiki provided a spectacular free show:

For our week in Oahu, we got a great deal through Hotwire for a comfortable rental car. We had the luxury of planning our days according to our whims and our condo, located about two blocks from Waikiki Beach provided free parking. We sure packed a lot into our week on Oahu!

Pearl Harbor:

The USS Arizona Memorial:

Polynesian Cultural Center:

The view from the top of Diamond Head was superb...

...so the rather strenuous climb was worth it:

Our friend Richard insisted we try malasadas from Leonard's Bakery and they are incredibly delicious!

There was so much more... our evening coffee at the Halekulani Hotel , the Dole Plantation, the Honolulu Zoo, and the Hanauma Bay Marine Preserve to name a few. I can't wait to go back!

Aloha!

~ Lisa

Birds of Mexico: Tabasco

2010-05-21T01:12:23Z

Our trip to Mexico provided abundant opportunities for bird-watching. In the state of Tabasco, in and around Villahermosa, Alex was able to photograph hundreds of birds. Following are some of my favorites... the description is above each picture:

Yellow-headed Parrot:

Wood Storks:

Vermillion Flycatcher:

White Ibis:

White-collared Seedeater:

Tiger Egret:

Summer Tanager:

Social Flycatcher:

Snowy Egret:

Roseate Spoonbill:

Plain Chachalaca:

Least Tern:

Green Heron:

Green Parrot:

Little Blue Heron:

Great Egret:

Pale-vented Dove:

Great Kiskadee:

Great Blue Heron:

Double-crested Cormorant:

Black-capped Night Heron:

Black-bellied Whistling Ducks:

Belted Kingfisher:

Bat Falcon:

~ Lisa (Photos by Alexander)

Upcoming posts: Adventures in the Yucatan

Yumká and La Venta

2010-05-15T21:51:00Z

For a very reasonable fee of $72, Alex and I had a car and driver for the entire day. The car was a brand-new Toyota, driven by Carlos, a friendly young man who worked for the tour company. The tour included the entrance fees to both Yumká and La Venta Park.

Yumká is a wildlife park in the Mexican state of Tabasco, about a 30-minute drive from the city of Villhermosa. The 250 acre park is well-maintained and home to a large collection of exotic animals and a sanctuary for birds that roam freely. Visitors climb aboard a large, open truck that seats about 30 passengers and then you are taken on a "safari."

The exotic animals such as these zebras appeared content and well-nourished...

... and many like this giraffe roam free but keep their distance from the safari-mobile.

Some of the more dangerous animals are kept back by a barely visible hot-wire.

After the "safari" you are taken to the Visitors' Center that has many interesting displays, including several aviaries and many birds that roam the grounds freely.

Here is a termite nest that provides a constant supply of food for some birds.

The parrots at the Visitors Center were entertaining... they talked and did pirouettes for the visitors, but their wings are clipped.

After a great morning at Yumká we stopped for lunch at La Lupita, a popular sea food restaurant where I had an very good crab cocktail and Alex had freshly-caught grilled fish. Then we were off to La Venta Park which was within walking distance of our hotel. Carlos took us to the gates where we met our guide, Raul.

La Venta Park is not to be confused with La Venta archeological site which is located several hours from the city of Villahermosa, the capitol of Tabasco. We visited only La Venta Park which includes an outdoor museum and a zoo. The most important Olmec artifacts were moved years ago from the archeological site to the park to safeguard them from vandals. La Venta Park is dedicated to highlighting and preserving the Olmec "mother culture" of Mexico. There is much to see at La Venta, but here are just some of the highlights.

This colossal head, unlike the others found at La Venta, does not represent half-open lips, but portrays a harsh gesture and wears a helmet decorated with three petals (c. 700-400 B.C.).

This is the "Triumphal Altar," one of the best-preserved altars and of great iconographic meaning. A human face and jaguar jaws with a symbol of crossed bands which represent the spots of this feline, associated with power, can be made out in the central part of the cornice of this monument.

This colossal head is known as the "Young Warrior" (c. 700-600 B.C.) and was found lined up in northernmost La Venta. A familiar feature is the teeth-revealing open mouth. The basalt used for this head confirms the existence of many deposits exploited by the Olmecs in the Tuxtlas region of Veracruz.

This colossal head is known as "The Old Warrior" and is similar to other heads by its features. However, this governor-warrior represents different iconographic elements such as the helmet which is decorated with a claw, possibly of the harpy eagle.

This sculpture is known as the "Governor," a crossed-legged seated character who must have been a high-ranking dignitary based on the garments he is wearing, pectoral on his chest, divided headdress and decorations over his ears.

A large group of coatimundis live in the park, foraging freely... they are also adept at begging from visitors. They are known as "tejones" and will appear from nowhere to get a treat of dried bread.

~ Lisa

Pre-Hispanic City of Palenque

2010-04-30T04:47:00Z

Our recent trip to Mexico took us to the Pre-Hispanic City and National Park of Palenque in the state of Chiapas, about a two-hour drive from Villahermosa. The history of Palenque is fascinating and it's easy to understand why it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987. Palenque is an example of a Mayan sanctuary from the classical period. This city was at its height between 500 and 700 AD. It had been abandoned centuries before the arrival of Spanish priest, Pedro Lorenzo de Nada in 1567, who first wrote about it. In the 20th century, excavations at Palenque have shed light on the structure of the Mayan dynasties. In the centuries after it was abandoned, Palenque was swallowed by the jungle and only about 5% of the structures have been excavated and are able to be viewed by the public.

We booked a group tour from our hotel in Villahermosa at a cost of about $135 USD for the two of us, including the guide at Palenque but not tips or lunch. We ended up being the only two on the tour so we were assigned a small but new private car and a friendly driver. After the archeological site, our last stop was the Site Museum (Museo del Sitio) which was deliciously air conditioned, and then lunch at a recommended open-air restaurant called Los Liones. Alex, Carlos our driver, and I were the only guests... the food was decent but the best was yet to come. The excursion to Palenque took about 8 hours.

This photo taken from the Temple of the Foliated Cross shows the Temple of the Sun at left, the Palace in the center, and the Temple of the Cross, at right:

A closer view of the Palace as it looks today:

A replica of the Palace at the Site Museum shows what it looked like in it heyday:

The Temple of the Sun:

Looking up at the Temple of the Inscriptions, the burial place of Pacal, a Mayan king:

Alexander climbed to the top of the Temple of the Cross (he's on the left)... I watched from the shade of a big tree because it was over 100 degrees:

The Temple of the Foliated Cross is an easy climb:

Temple of the Foliated Cross is at right:

From a distance you can see the dense, lush jungle that envelopes Palenque:

Did I mention that 95% of Palenque has NOT been excavated? Visitors just have access to a mere 5% of the site. Here, barely visible beneath the overgrowth, is a structure yet to be excavated:

A structure under excavation, a process that takes years:

The Maya were an advanced society. To this day, the exact cause of their disappearance remains a mystery. Here you can see the aqueduct that was used to bring water to the city:

This is the impressive temple group near the entrance. The craft vendors are kept out of the park and visitors are free to enjoy this amazing place without being distracted:

The rain forest of Palenque contains diverse flora and fauna, a bird-lover's paradise. It looks cool and green, but cool it is not. The 100 degree heat was suffocating when combined with the humidity:

~ Lisa

Trek to the Sunshine State: Magic Kingdom and More

2010-03-26T16:26:00Z

They say you're never too old to play like a kid, or maybe it's that we're in our second childhood, but play we did. A good part of our trip to Florida involved just having fun at the many attractions. After two weeks, it was time to go home and we still hadn't accomplished all there is to see and do. But, hey, this is a good excuse to go back! It helped that I researched the best days to go to the various attractions, so we never had to wait in line more than 5 minutes, so it really paid off.

Here are some of my favorite places...

EPCOT is an acronym for Experimental Prototype Community of Tomorrow. The International exhibits open at 11:00, but there is plenty to see before then.

The topiaries are delightful!

The rain and cold didn't dampen our spirits at Hollywood Studios!

The Silverbacks entertained us at Animal Kingdom...

...as did these frolicking flamingos.

My favorite place at Disney World... the Magic Kingdom! My favorite ride: Space Mountain!
Yes, without a doubt, the Magic Kingdom was my favorite. What an amazing place! Have you heard the rumor about the underground city at Magic Kingdom? Guess what, it's true. Check it out!

Everyone loves a parade... especially the children. The look on their faces is priceless!

Downtown Disney has free parking, lots of shops, restaurants, and some interesting displays, like this sea monster made of Leggos.

Another day it was off to Gatorland where you can see some extremely big alligators and more. Gator wresting is pretty easy...

Anyone can do it!

What can I say about St. Augustine? It's a beautiful place and the oldest city in North America. We will stay longer next time. Here is the harbor... you can see the light house in the distance.

Yours truly at the St. Augustine city gates.

Yes, we'll be back!

~ Lisa

Trek to the Sunshine State: Everglades

2010-03-09T16:58:00Z

When our trip to Machu Picchu was canceled due to the torrential rains and the ensuing destruction of the railroad to Aguas Calientes, Alexander and I were left itching to go somewhere WARM.

Ever the history buff, Alexander wanted to see St. Augustine, the oldest continuously occupied city in the US, established in 1565. I was leaning more toward something like Disney World, so Orlando, Florida fit the bill perfectly. This is a good time for travel bargains. Traveling in the off-peak season is a benefit of being retired and we packed a lot into two weeks. Ironically, we did not encounter the warm weather we craved, but we did have fun. It was a great impromptu trip.

Our first weekend took us to the Everglades. An air boat ride provided excellent viewing, especially birds and alligators. The swampy Everglades are loaded with interesting flora and fauna, and happily, the cold weather meant NO MOSQUITOES.

Trees in the Everglades are abundantly draped with Spanish moss, an air plant (epiphyte), which means it does not use its host plant for food. It has no roots but attaches to the host using stems. The stems hang down from the host tree branches and collect moisture and nutrients from the air.

Lush Spanish moss was used to stuff pillows and mattresses in the "olden days." It has a soft, spongy texture.

Beware of lurking alligators, not always easy to spot in the murky waters...

Bird-watching was greatly entertaining! Here is a Purple Gallinule (aka swamp chicken)...

... and a Great Egret on her nest. These egrets nest above alligator sanctuaries (aka gator holes) to keep predators from reaching their nests.

Any babies that fall out of the nest become alligator food, but the adults were often seen cautiously venturing close to the 'gators.

Whee.... "Look, ma, I can surf!"

An alert Great Blue Heron...

... beautiful!

Here a sweet-faced female Boat-tailed Grackle checks us out. The males are black.

A Black-crowned Night Heron...

...and a Snowy Egret getting feisty with another egret...

These homely Black Vultures have an important role in the ecosystem.

They are the "clean-up crew" just waiting for the next opportunity.

These turtles basking in the sun where as still as statues.

Our air boat was similar to this one, seen moving away from the dock. The noise made ear plugs necessary, but our guide stopped frequently for better viewing and much-appreciated quiet.

More on Florida to follow... see upcoming post.

~ Lisa

Le Cirque is in Town!

2010-02-18T19:30:00Z

Cirque du Soleil, that is. Last Tuesday, Alexander and I treated ourselves to Cirque du Soleil's OVA which is currently performing in San Jose through March 21. Check out their website for more information and tickets. The following photos are from their website as they do not allow flash photography. It was definitely worth the cost of the tickets.

The extravaganza takes place in the Grand Chapiteau (Big Top) which seats ~2,500. Here it is being set up, a process that takes several days.

The performers wear fabulous costumes, like this "ant"...

...and a grasshopper. The music and choreography were superb throughout the two and a half hour show.

We were mesmerized by acts such as the slack wire and amazed to see the extent to which the human body can contort!

Viva le cirque!

~ Lisa

Las Capuchinas, Antigua, Guatemala

2010-02-15T15:13:00Z

A visit to Las Capuchinas or the Capuchin Convent, in the colonial city of Antigua, Guatemala, takes you back to an era of surprising customs and impressive architecture. The monument consists of restored sections that house offices and a museum, and other areas that are protected ruins. The entrance fee of ~ $4 USD is well worth the experience.

Las Capuchinas was founded in 1725, and completed in 1736 as a convent for the cloistered Capuchin nuns from Spain. It was designed by Diego de Porres, a well-know colonial-era architect. Las Capuchinas was home to 28 novices, most of whom were banished to the cloistered life by their families, often for defiance, an intolerable offense in a time when a woman's role in society was defined by strict mores.

The novices lived in tiny cells arranged in a unique circular configuration. Yes, I asked... the cells had "toilets" similar to the outhouse concept, but made of stone. Waste was flushed by water from an underground spring emanating from the surrounding highlands. In a nearby bath chamber, heated water was routed to large stone tubs where the nuns would bathe while clothed in special garments.

Unlike other Catholic orders, Capuchin novitiates were not required to pay a dowry to enter the sisterhood, but they had to relinquish all their worldly possessions. Once they entered the cloistered life, they also renounced all contact with the outside world, not even with their families. Their days were devoted to prayer and meditation but they used their sewing skills to generate income for operating the convent.

Below the circular courtyard is a strange subterranean chamber with acoustics that permit certain notes to resonate with amazing clarity. It is thought this eerie chamber was used for special prayer sessions, but its exact use is unknown.

From the second level, one can access the nuns' choir loft which gives a good view of the nave of the chapel, now in ruins. The choir loft was built so those attending mass could hear the nuns sing, but they would never be able to see them.

Also from the second level, on a clear day you get an excellent view of the twin volcanoes, Fuego (to the left) and Acatenango. During our visit, the cloud cover obscured the volcanoes but I did get a good photo of Cerro de le Cruz, which looks down on the city.

Having been rebuilt after the earthquake of 1751, the convent was abandoned in 1773 after another severe temblor. The Capuchin nuns then relocated to Guatemala City, taking with them all religious artifacts and anything in the convent that could be transported.

Las Capuchinas is one of many monuments in beautiful Antigua, Guatemala. Antigua is was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979.

~ Lisa

The Elephant Seals of Año Nuevo

2010-02-14T05:45:00Z

On a recent Monday, Alexander and I, along with our friend Richard, drove over to Año Nuevo on the southern coast of San Mateo County and site of largest mainland breeding colony of the northern elephant seal.

We had reservations for the 9:15 a.m. walk but arrived early and were able to join the 9:00 a.m. group. Tickets are $7 and available online. The day was sunny and clear, something we appreciated given the many rainy days we've had this year. To view the colony, one must make the 3 mile walk in a small group accompanied by a docent. Our docent was well-informed and presented information about the elephant seals in an interesting manner.

From the Visitor's Center you can see the point (at right in the photo below). Our hike will take us to the beach on the other side of the point to observe the mainland colony up close. Beyond the point, on a nearly island, another large colony makes its home. That area is not accessible to the public but can be viewed in the Visitor's Center via a strategically-placed videocam on the island.

Elephant seal females arrive at Año Nuevo in late December and form "harems" on the beaches. Within a week, the females, ranging in in size from 10-12 feet and weighing 1200 to 2000 pounds, give birth to a pup weighing about 75 pounds. They nurse the pup for only 25-28 days.

The males are easy to spot because of their pendulous noses. Younger males have smaller noses but the older, "alpha" males have a huge proboscis which they use for LOUD roaring, especially when competing to mate. The males will grow to about 16 feet and weigh over 5,000 pounds.

This younger "beta" male is feeling his oats...

...and decides to challenge a sleeping alpha male.

But Beta quickly retreats when he sees the size of Alpha (right)! Check out Alpha's nose.

After nursing on the mother's rich milk for about 28 days, the pups weigh 250-350 pounds. The mothers abandon the pups and head back to sea after mating. By mid-March, most of the adults have left and only the pups remain at Año Nuevo. They spend their days in the sea learning to swim and evading predators such as sharks.

The females come into season about 24 days after giving birth and will mate before heading out to sea for several months of feeding. Adult elephant seals will return to Año Nuevo in the spring and summer months for their annual "catastrophic" molt where they abruptly shed their old skin and fur.

This is a great day-trip, and is especially educational for students.

~ Lisa

Visiting NYC in winter

2010-02-10T18:37:00Z

can be dicey. Today, there are blizzard warnings in the Big Apple. Fortunately, my sister and I enjoyed beautiful winter weather during our recent week-long visit. I guess timing is everything.

Since we were kids, my wonderful sister has always shared... so it's not surprising she even shares her grandkids with me. She and I spent a lovely week enjoying time with her youngest grandson, my grandnephew, who just turned one. Needless to say, we were delightfully entertained for the week, did some sightseeing and lots of walking.

One new place I'd never been was the Tenement Museum. The one-hour tour was interesting although somewhat expensive at $20. However, the fees benefit this non-profit organization dedicated to preserving the history of NYC's immigrants.

On our next trip maybe we'll make it to the New Museum...

or try the cappuccino...

and buy more mushrooms.

We might even run into Gizmo again.

Maybe we'll drive a Smart car...

and see the sights.

We could get a fix of Bon Chon chicken...

and squirrel watch in Stuyvesant Town...

or visit a school.

But best of all, we'll enjoy the people!

~ Lisa

Whale Tales

2010-01-31T22:05:00Z

Some of the best experiences are in our own back yard, but why is it we don’t take advantage of them or when we do, it’s because we have visitors? We have to work on this now that we're retired.

In mid-January Alexander and I took our daughters who were visiting from Idaho on a whale watching excursion in Monterey Bay. I had always thought it would be very expensive but found that it's only about $35 for a trip that took almost 3 hours.

On the way out to sea, we passed California Sea Lions huddling for warmth on the jetty.

Sea otters are especially entertaining and come very close to the pier.

Among the many sea birds we saw, my favorites are the prehistoric-looking pelicans.

This gray whale put on a show between our boat and our companion boat.

The biologist on board had a sense of humor, promising we'd get some "tail" and we sure did!

A large school of Risso's dolphins were an amazing sight.

An up-close shot of Risso's dolphins.

Afterward, we enjoyed a great sea-food dinner on the wharf. Yes, we need to explore close to home more often.

~ Lisa

The Journey Up the Central American Coast to Mexico

2009-12-29T18:08:00Z

After Costa Rica, our cruise stopped daily at a port in a different country.

San Juan de Sur, Nicaragua
On Thursday, we arrived in Nicaragua. The infrastructure of Nicaragua is underdeveloped, so it is disconcerting to see never ending trash and shoddy construction, even at resorts considered to be more upscale. But there an abundance of beautiful landscapes and friendly people. We have decided to come back some day and take a more leisurely trek through Nicaragua to fully appreciate what it has to offer.

Coming into the port of San Juan del Sur, Nicacragua.

We stopped at a resort on Lake Nicaragua, the third-largest lake in the world. Here you can see the clouds falling over the cone of the volcano, like icing on a cake.

The lake was calm and the weather very hot. The lake waters offer refuge for many species of birds and assorted wildlife.

Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala

On Friday we had an entire day in Guatemala. Puerto Quetzal is clean, bustling, and orderly.

Being very familiar with Guatemala because of previous travel, we opted for an "on your own" shuttle to Antigua where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch with our friends from Posada La Merced. This is Adelaida with her son Daniel, whom we've watched grow since he was a four-month old babe wrapped in his mother's rebozo. Daniel is now 4 and will soon be starting school.

At sunset, we set sail for Mexico, our pilot boats guiding the Island Princess.

Huatulco, Mexico
On Saturday, we docked in Huatulco, Mexico. We were told that Huatulco is similar to the Acapulco of the 50s, and it is certainly benefiting from tourism. This really didn't mean much to me until I saw Acapulco. Real Estate development is booming here, and there is a concerted effort to attract Canadians... the prices of many condos are advertised in Canadian dollars on huge banners and there are frequent weekly flights from Toronto.

Huatulco is spread out over a 20-mile coastline that encompasses about seven bays, the principal ones being Bahia de Santa Cruz, Bahia Chahue, and Bahia Tangolunda.

The port has a strong military presence as there is a Mexican naval base nearby.

Looking down on our ship from the overlook at the Huatulco National Preserve.

A little bird told me a tip would be appreciated.

Alexander opted for an "eco-walk" and I for a trip into town, where my group was treated to a lunch of typical Oaxacan fare. Here is the restaurant's mascot.

This woman is wearing one of the typical costumes of Oaxaca.

Acapulco, Mexico
Early Sunday morning, we arrived in Acapulco, our final destination. It was a new experience disembarking in a foreign country. We were not able to get off the ship until about 9:30 a.m., since priority is given to folks who must catch a flight out of town. So there was a line (not too bad) to get off the ship, a line to go through customs once we had our bags, a line to get a taxi, and once at the hotel, the longest line of all to register, a process that took longer than getting off the ship and the taxi ride to the hotel. Alexander got into the "preferred customer" line with only one person ahead of him and I got in the long line with six representatives helping register guests. We made it to the front at the same time.

This was my first visit to Acapulco, and possibly my last. The city is so darn HUGE, with over 2 million inhabitants, not counting thousands of tourists. The infrastructure is clearly being stretched beyond the limits. There was far too much trash and filth on the streets, even in the "exclusive" Zona de Oro where we stayed. The noxious sewer gases emanating from some vents do not add to the ambiance. The hotel was a bargain ($85 a night for a suite on the 18th floor), but the construction gave us cause for concern... well done repairs shouldn't look like amateur patch jobs. Alexander swears he could feel the building swaying in the wind. Add cardboard towels and no hot water to the mix and we couldn't wait to get out of there the next day. Yep, I guess we are spoiled after the cruise.

The beautiful view from our balcony belies construction concerns.

For about $70, you can hire a taxi for four hours and see the major attractions. We had lunch at El Mirador, where the famed divers attract a crowd at 1:00 p.m. every afternoon. There are also illuminated performances in the evening.

The mosaic mural at Diego Rivera's former home is still spectacular, years after he created it.

From the Chapel of the Cross at Las Brisas, an American celebrity enclave, you can see the panorama of city.

This monument at the chapel, "Las Manos de la Humanidad" (the Hands of Humanity), reminds us that we have much in common with people the world over.

~ Lisa

Punta Arenas, Costa Rica... or Not

2009-12-19T13:38:00Z

The Island Princess docked at dawn and began disembarkation at 7:30 a.m. Although Punta Arenas is becoming a popular beach resort town, we opted for a day-long excursion to the capitol, San Jose, a beautiful colonial city.

On the way to San Jose we passed the cathedral in Grecia, Costa Rica, a beautifully maintained building.

The ox cart is a national symbol in Costa Rica. This is an example of an intricately painted ox cart at the Fabrica de Carretas (Ox Cart Factory), established in 1903.

Artisans at the factory paint wagon wheels to be sold as souvenirs.

San Jose's Teatro Nacional (National Theater), over 100 years old, is a beautifully restored building modeled after the opera house in Paris, France.

Costa Rica contains 5% of the world's plant and animal species, although it consists of only .03 percent of the earth's landmass. It is home to about 1,250 species of butterflies and 894 species of birds.

Costa Rica is a safe country with no armed forces.

Costa Ricans, a friendly people, are nicknamed "ticos" and "ticas."

~Lisa

The Panama Canal and Fuerte Amador

2009-12-15T22:39:00Z

The 50-mile journey through the Panama Canal began at 4:45 a.m. and continued for most of the day. The trek from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean took us through a series of three sets of locks. The first are the Gatun locks, consisting of a triple flight from the Caribbean Sea to Gatun Lake. We then we went through a single flight at Pedro Miguel, and a two-step flight at Miraflores. Our ship was raised from sea level to the level of Gatun Lake as it proceeded through the locks. We then sailed the channel through the Continental Divide, accompanied by a pilot boat.

Before going through the last two sets of locks, we passed under the Centennial Bridge, striking in its architectural design and inaugurated in 2004 to relieve some of the traffic on the Bridge of the Americas, built in 1964. The latter is a trans America bridge with a road over it that begins in Panama City and goes all the way to Canada. The only way to get to South America after Panama City is by plane. The Pan American Highway stops in Panama and starts again in Colombia. You can read the interesting story of one couple's journey in Las Americas, on our blogroll. This is the account of friends, Sharon and Jack's journey from the tip of North America to the bottom of South America.... in the company of their cat, Amadeus, and dog, Ewok, both 15 years old. What an adventure! But I digress...

The Panama Canal is truly an engineering wonder that has had a tremendous impact on shipping, saving time and money. It provides an alternate to the dangerous route via the Drake Passage and Cape Horn. A ship traveling from NYC to San Francisco via the Panama Canal travels 6,000 miles in comparison to 14,000 miles going the route around Cape Horn. Now we can scratch crossing the Panama Canal off our bucket list! It's an amazing experience we will want to repeat some day.

At approximately 4:00p.m., we anchored off of Fuerte Amador (Fort Amador), adjacent to Panama City. We were surprised by the Panama City skyline, striking in its array of condominium skyscrapers, some 84 stories high. We booked an excursion through Princess to see Panama City by night. It pays to book tours online early as I did... space was very limited and we heard of many disappointed passengers unable to go on either of the two excursions offered. Disembarkation was not the unpleasant experience I anticipated. We spent very little time waiting in line... to disembark, to board our tender, or to get on the tour bus. It was well-organized and we were on shore by 4:45 p.m.

We disembarked early enough to see some of Panama City by day and night. What we were able to see was worth it: Casco Viejo, the colonial Panama city (a World Heritage site), the business district, the Museo Antropológico, and Paseo Las Bóvedas where the Christmas festivities were being initiated with numerous displays, nativity scenes, the lighting of an enormous tree, and fireworks. Our tour guide was good: a British expatriate named Julian who was very knowledgeable about his new country.

Getting ready to enter the Gatun locks, our pilot boat pulls back and the mules get ready.

The mules are now attached to the ship.

The view from the stern (rear of ship) at Miralflores locks.

Looking back at Centennial Bridge.

We are almost to the Pacific... passing under the Bridge of the Americas.

The Panama City skyline from our balcony.

The Altar de Oro (golden altar) at the Iglesia de San Jose has a unique history. It was one of our stops in the Historic District.

The Kuna Indians create beautiful tapestries called molas, which are seen here at the artesan market.

~Lisa

Ocho Rios: So, where are the rivers?

2009-12-13T16:15:00Z

As a Spanish-speaker, I was intrigued to understand why the Jamaican town of Ocho Rios was so named... after all, it means "Eight Rivers." In researching its history, I learned there are not eight rivers in the town. Ocho Rios got its name from a misunderstanding between two cultures. According to local history, back in 1657 the British fought a battle with a Spanish expedition that had made its way from Cuba. The site of the battle was Dunn's River Falls, which the Spanish called "chorreros" meaning river rapids. The English did not understand the Spanish term and called it "ocho rios" because it sounds similar enough, and the name stuck.

Once a fishing village, Ocho Rios now has a population of about 100,000. It's a thriving tourist town that is a frequent stop for cruise ships. The deep-water pier can berth three cruise ships at a time. If like us, you land here because it's a port of call on your cruise, you will want to maximize your time. Of note is Dunn's River Falls... a spectacular waterfall that provides great photo ops from endless vantage points. If you are up to it, hike to the top of the slippery falls with your guide, or climb up the adjacent rustic stone staircase.

Ocho Rios has something for everybody... for a price, of course. Choose from Coyaba Gardens, horseback riding, the Sky Explorer chairlift, golf, the Chukka Cove Farm canopy experience (zip lining), jeep tours, exploring the Green Grotto caves, kayaking from Laughing Waters Lagoon to James Bond Beach, river rafting on the Martha Brae River, and much more.

Interested in shopping? An American dollar converts to about 89 Jamaican dollars and getting spending money is easy at an ATM. Most Jamaican vendors will accept American dollars but give you change in JD. The local craft centers offer an array of goods, from mass-produced items to individually hand-carved wooden figures. Bob Marley and "rasta" figures abound, as well as beaded necklaces, tee-shirts, sandals, and typical touristy souvenirs like key chains. Although, I enjoyed looking at the interesting array of crafts, I've out-grown the desire to shop for souvenirs on every trip -- in my case, they end up as soon-to-be dust-catchers. Downsizing has a way of making you see with new eyes all the STUFF we've collected over the years. My favorite "souvenir" now is a digital photo.

Be prepared for very aggressive vendors at the Dunn River Falls Park craft markets... we were warned by our guide that when vendors place a necklace on a tourist, they expect payment even if they tell you it's "free." If you want spirits or wine, we recommend Cruise Booze, just outside the cruise ship dock. They have the best selection and prices. Stay away from Jablum, where they will charge more then two times as much for the same bottle of rum available at Cruise Booze. One disappointment for us: Margaritaville, where we went for lunch. Apart from the good music, the service was very poor, the menu overpriced, and the food cold. We should have stuck to a place frequented by the locals, but we were tired and hungry and it was close by.

For the residents of Ocho Rios, tourism is an important source of employment and revenue. Ocho Rios would be a good place to rest and relax for a few weeks if you enjoy beautiful, fairly clean beaches. The locals are friendly and helpful, and we enjoyed the informative tour by our knowledgeable and entertaining guide, Lovelyn.

Cuba as seen from the balcony.

The pilot boat at Ocho Rios assists anchoring our ship.

Ocho Rios at 10:00 a.m. is hot and humid, but overcast.

This enterprising fire eater at Coyaba Gardens will expect a tip.

Locals and tourists alike will take the challenge of climbing the falls.

At the top of the falls after the climb.

The pristine beach where the falls feed the ocean.

~ Lisa

Get ready, get set...

2009-12-08T20:10:00Z

Packing for trips always challenges me. What to pack? How to pack it? What am I forgetting? You would think that by now I'd be a pro, but truth be told, this old dog is still learning some new tricks. And now that most airlines are charging a fee for a second bag, and some even for the first, avoiding added fees are an incentive to pack light. Plus, it's no fun schlepping a bunch of suitcases through a busy airport.

The days of folding clothes in my suitcase are over... now I prefer to bundle wrap whenever I can, utilizing tips learned from some very sage travelers out there. I hate to do laundry or iron while on the road, so I buy clothes that require very little care. Fabrics that shed wrinkles and stains are a good choice. Also important: I mix and match tops and pants or skirts in creative ways that look as if I have lots of outfits. I stay away from anything too "memorable" but will use accessories such as a scarves for a new look. Shoes have to be comfortable and versatile enough for walking and it's a bonus if they pass for semi-dressy. Or I may take a dressy pair of pumps depending on the destination.

What about travel gadgets? Well, let's see... I'll take my inflatable travel pillow for the long flight, head phones, iPhone, small digital camera and Flip cam, pedometer, small but powerful flashlight, LED night light, and a travel alarm clock. Alexander will pack his Swiss Army knife in the check-through bag... it has a lot of handy tools, but the only one I will likely use is the cork screw. Some people might think we're crazy, but we always take a laptop. Alexander likes to keep up with downloading/editing his photos and I like to keep up with my email. On this upcoming trip, I'll be taking my netbook because it takes up very little room in my carry-on bag. I will also take about 10 books or so... but I cheat. They are stashed in my Kindle, along with backup pdfs of our travel documents.

What I won't be packing: hair dryer... the hotel or ship will either have one or I'll do without. I'll take a few velcro rollers, lightweight and good for quick hair fixes. Another unnecessary item: travel iron. First of all, irons are strictly prohibited on cruise ships and I avoid packing clothes that tend to wrinkle anyway. Years ago, I remember wearing a linen suit on a trip to Europe. Although I "only" spent 12 hours in these clothes, I looked as if I had spent 12 days in them! What was I thinking? The other mistake I made was packing too many clothes, some I never even wore... I just tended to wear my favorites. So, I will pack only what I know I'll wear.

Our agreement is that we each must carry our own bag. So to help me get organized, I use a list created on my computer and I modify it according to the trip. If it's not on the list, it doesn't get packed. I also research the weather to avoid taking jackets or bulky sweaters I won't use. Well, I'd better get back to packing 'cause we leave tomorrow.

~ Lisa